History
The parish of St Mary Le Strand may
lay a good claim to being one of the oldest parishes in London. It stands
dominating a roadway which since prehistory has been the main artery to the west
from the City of London. In early Saxon times the Strand area was the very heart
of London, for it seems that the City was effectively abandoned by the
newly-arrived settlers. The Saxons predominantly inhabited "Lundenwic", an area
stretching from Fleet Street to Whitehall and from the Thames to Covent Garden
from the sixth to the ninth centuries. Christianity came to this settlement with
St Mellitus and his followers in 604, and, despite their brief expulsion in the
620s, became firmly established. We do not know if any of the existing churches
in the area date back that far but some, such as St Clement Danes, are known to
have existed in later Saxon times.
There is no record of when St Mary Le
Strand was founded, but the first church, which was dedicated to the Nativity of
the Blessed Virgin Mary, stood just south of the present church on a site now
covered by Somerset House. Throughout the Middle Ages, the Bishops of Worcester
were the Patrons of the parish and had their London residence on an adjoining
site. For throughout the period from the Norman Conquest to the Reformation, the
Strand was mainly the home of bishops and princes. Within the parish were the
"inns" - large town houses with chapels, stables and accommodation for a large
retinue - of the Bishops of Worcester, Llandaff and Coventry and Lichfield. A
large part of the parish was absorbed by the building of a great house, the
Palace of the Savoy, by Count Peter of Savoy, the uncle of Henry III's wife, in the
1240s. A century later this became the home of John of Gaunt, Earl of Lancaster,
and the palace became a centre of culture; among its residents was Geoffrey
Chaucer, who was married in the palace chapel. Gaunt's unpopularity, as the
King's chief minister, caused the palace to be burned in the Peasant's Revolt.
Despite its long absence, the fame of the palace has lasted in the area and was
recreated in the nineteenth century by the Savoy Hotel and Theatre.
The site where the present church
stands was occupied in medieval times by Strand Cross. The origins of this are
unclear. It was not a cross erected in memory of Queen Eleanor - as was Charing
Cross - but seems to have dated back at least to Norman times. Perhaps it began
as a market cross; by the early fourteenth century it had been rebuilt in a
lavish manner, almost certainly following the design of the Eleanor Crosses.
Strand Cross was a famous site and it is recorded that in the thirteenth century
the local magistrates held their assizes in front of it.
Until the sixteenth century, the
Strand was no more than a line of Bishops' palaces on the south side of the
roadway stretching all the way to Whitehall. On the north side stood a wall
which bounded the Convent - later Covent - Garden, while the churches further
away, St Martin's and St Giles, stood "in-the-fields". All this was to change
with the Reformation. The bishops' inns around the church were seized by Edward
Somerset,
Lord Protector, who set about building himself a renaissance palace, in what was
then the most fashionable part of town. Even with the extensive site that he had
now obtained, further space was needed and towards the end of 1548 the Lord
Protector's workmen fell upon St Mary's church and demolished it to provide
stone for the new palace. Further stone was provided by the demolition of a
cloister at St Paul's Cathedral known as Pardon Churchyard and the greater part
of the Priory of St John at Clerkenwell. Even by the standards of the time, the
demolition of so much sacred property was an outrage. Somerset was never to
enjoy living in his new palace; just as it was nearing completion he was
overthrown by his political enemies and executed at Tower Hill in
1551.
It is said that Somerset had intended
to build a new parish church. If so, all thought of it passed away with his
fall. Initially, the parishoners scattered but within a short time we find them
gathered in the chapel of St John the Baptist in the Savoy. Here they would
remain for the next 175 years. Now known at "St Mary le Savoy", the parishoners
chose and paid for their own ministers. The most famous of these was Thomas
Fuller, the church historian, who was appointed in 1642, fled during the Civil
War and was restored to his living in 1660.
Following the execution of Somerset,
his palace had passed to the possession of the Crown. Elizabeth I occassionally
lodged there and it was from Somerset House that she set off to give thanks
after the defeat of the Armada. Under the Stuarts, extensive improvements were
made to the palace, the most impressive being the lavish Roman Catholic chapel
build of Charles I's queen, Henrietta Maria.
The roadway in front of Somerset
House, where Strand Cross had stood and where the present church was later to
stand, was occupied in the early seventeenth century by a windmill used to pump
water. In 1634 the first Hackney Carriage stand in England was established here
by one Captain Bailey. Here also a maypole was erected which became the most
famous maypole in London. Demolished by the Puritans, a new maypole was erected
in 1661. Parts of this maypole remained until 1717, when they were removed and
presented to Sir Isaac Newton as the base for a telescope.
In 1711, an Act of Parliament was
passed for building 50 New Churches in the fast expanding suburbs of London.
These were the so-called "Queen Ann Churches"; among them are Hawksmoor's Chrish
Church Spitalfields, St Anne's Limehouse, and St George's-in-the-East, Archer's
St Paul's Depford and James' St George, Hanover Square. St Mary Le Strand was
quick to apply for a church to replace their demolished one and, as the site on
the Strand was so prominent, the Commissioners for building the New Churches
decided to make the Strand church the most lavish of the churches. Initially, it
was intended that there should not be a spire but that a column celebrating the
building of the New Churches should stand directly in front of the
church.